From Global Insights to Local Innovation – The WTA ‘Holistic Insights: Paradoxes in Ukraine’s Import & Export’ Event in Kyiv
On October 30 at Kyiv’s International Exhibition Center, the Wine Travel Awards (WTA) signature event, “Holistic Insights: Paradoxes in Ukraine’s Import & Export,” was nothing short of spectacular! The Masterclass Zone was filled to capacity with wine professionals, while many local and international experts joined online, creating an electric atmosphere. The event’s key highlights included two leading global wine experts, Richard Bampfield MW and Robert Joseph, who set the stage with in-depth insights. Following their presentations, prominent Ukrainian industry leaders discussed the challenges and opportunities for Ukrainian wine on the international stage.
Ukrainian Wines in Focus: Richard Bampfield’s Insights and the Standout Impact of Odesa Black
Richard Bampfield MW brought a wealth of insights from his journey with Ukrainian wines, from his first introduction at the Wines of Ukraine stand at the London Wine Fair in 2022 to the recent, exclusive tasting in Warsaw on July, organized by Wines of Ukraine. His reflections spanned a mix of praise and constructive critiques – thoughtful observations that our editorial team, along with Richard himself, regard as essential guidance for producers and industry professionals alike. For those willing to listen, his insights promise not only to inform but to inspire, offering a roadmap for the continued growth and international recognition of Ukrainian wines.
Richard began his presentation with words of appreciation and continued, “I like to think, much like Robert, that I keep very well informed about the world of wine. However, I must admit that 2.5 years ago, I knew nothing about Ukraine as a wine-producing country.”
After Richard detailed his transformative journey in understanding Ukrainian wine: “Since then, I have had numerous opportunities to taste the wines and, best of all, meet some of the people involved. I have been greatly impressed by the positive attitude and entrepreneurial spirit, as well as the sense of purpose I have encountered in everyone I met within the Ukrainian wine world. I am full of admiration considering the circumstances, and it’s an honor to be invited to present this afternoon.”
“Initially, my interest in Ukraine was partly due to wanting to help, but I was also intrigued by this wine-producing country I had never come across,” he admitted. “Increasingly, my interest has shifted to the wines themselves because these wines deserve attention, and the variety of styles suggests there are tremendous opportunities here.”
The Warsaw Tasting: Setting the context for the tasting, Richard explained, “In the Warsaw tasting we had the opportunity to taste about 120 different wines from a variety of producers, styles, and many different parts of Ukraine. There were 6 Masters of Wine involved in the tasting, and their goal was to identify 24 wines and then 12 wines which we feel reflected the quality and diversity of wine that Ukraine can offer, which they could use in promotion and potential export markets.”
Sparkling Wines: Bampfield began with the sparkling wines, acknowledging gently that not all the sparkling wines made a strong impression. “We didn’t sample a large number, so I couldn’t pinpoint any especially remarkable examples. However, the quality of the rosés we did taste was consistently good. For the final selection, we chose two sparkling wines – one crafted with the tank method and one with the traditional method.
White Wines: Moving on to the whites, he expressed genuine enthusiasm: “This is where I’m really excited because I think with white wines, there are two grape varieties in particular, which are indigenous to Ukraine – Telti-Kuruk and Sukholymansky – and you make them beautifully. We had really good consistent examples. I like the fact that they don’t rely on oak in their expression; they’re both grapes that have individual expressions, unique to themselves, and I think the styles of crisp dry whites they produce are ideally suited to international markets at the moment.”
He also acknowledged the quality of the Chardonnays. “There were some good Chardonnays too; the quality was good. Additionally, there were interesting blends – local grapes blended with international ones, like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc – which were well managed.”
He noted a particularly promising Furmint: “We only had one wine made from Furmint, a Hungarian grape, but it was very good and so showed promise as well,” referencing the Chateau Chizay Furmint Late Harvest 2022.
Not all the whites made a strong impression, however. “Two white varieties that perhaps felt less inspiring were Pinot Gris, which may have been affected by higher yields, resulting in wines that were a bit more restrained. We also sampled a couple of Solaris blends, a grape that I understand can perform well in certain regions. While the ones we tasted didn’t stand out significantly, it’s possible they were from younger vines and may develop further with time.”
Rosé Wines: He provided a thoughtful assessment of the rosé category, noting some positive highlights. “There were several rosés, and while one stood out enough to make the top 24, none reached the top 12. The standout was made from Pinot Noir, which I think is a good option for a rosé. It’s difficult to generalize about what style of rosé international markets are after at the moment – there are so many different ones out there. But I think purity of fruit and freshness are key, and there’s no reason why rosé can’t have a little bit of residual sugar.”
Orange Wines: Bampfield’s opinion on orange wines was candid. “I’m never sure if it’s a good idea to give Masters of Wine orange wines to taste. I suspect if you ask 20 Masters of Wine their opinion on orange wine, you’ll get 20 different opinions. They were okay. There were a couple of very good ones – one made from Furmint from Zakarpatia and another from Rkatsiteli. Orange wines are a difficult territory, but there’s no question there’s a market for them. It’s still relatively small, but depending on which market it is and who your importer is, there are definitely opportunities.”
Red Wines: Finally, Bampfield shared his reflections on red wines, expressing great satisfaction. “We were very reassured by the reds. I think there’s a tendency in some Eastern European countries to think that the higher up the quality ladder you go with red wines, the more oak barrels you need to use, and the newer those barrels should be. What pleased us with Ukraine is that this wasn’t the case. There were really good examples of wines that were beautifully balanced without oak, and where oak was used, it was applied sensitively and intelligently.”
He noted that two grape varieties did not perform as strongly as others. “The two grapes that were less successful were Pinot Noir and Jupiter, but they were far outnumbered by the really good wines made from Odesa Black, Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi, and Merlot, along with blends of those grapes. We had a lot of high-scoring reds, and I think it could have even been a higher proportion of reds in the final selection of 24.”
The Highlight – Odesa Black: Bampfield’s admiration culminated in his praise for Odesa Black, which he viewed as a major asset for Ukraine. “I think all of us came away thinking that Ukraine’s got some really strong door openers with their wines, particularly with Odesa Black.”
“Odesa Black has been a revelation,” he continued. “We shouldn’t underestimate how important it is to have grape varieties that people recognize and, importantly, can pronounce. Odesa Black qualifies on both of those counts, and it produces very good wines, both oaked and unoaked. If we had to choose one key highlight from this tasting, it should be the quality of Odesa Black. Actually, in the final 12, there is just one pure Odesa Black, but there are 2 or 3 in the top 24, and there are lots of very good wines. If there are not more in the final 12, it was because we wanted to show the diversity of different grapes.”
With his concluding thoughts, Bampfield emphasized that Ukrainian wines deserve serious attention in the global market, especially through focused promotion of varietals like Odesa Black that can resonate internationally. His reflections captured both the potential and the pressing need for strategic positioning of Ukrainian wines to secure a place on the world stage.
Editorial Note: For more details on this tasting, please refer to this link.
Navigating Global Preferences: Robert Joseph’s Insights on the Essential Role of Strategic Marketing and Consumer Understanding in the Wine Industry
Robert Joseph believes that in today’s global wine market, simply making quality wine is no longer enough. With his extensive experience as a wine critic, organizer of wine competitions, judge, marketer, and now a winemaker, Joseph has developed a holistic view of the industry. He emphasizes the crucial role of targeted marketing and effective communication in reaching diverse audiences. Drawing on his experiences across regions such as Moldova, Georgia, and Ukraine, Joseph highlights the dramatic variations in consumer preferences and the importance of region-specific strategies. For winemakers navigating this complex landscape, knowing your consumer and investing in tailored outreach are essential to building successful brands.
Robert began with gratitude, “Thank you so much for the invitation; it’s wonderful to be here today, and I’m very happy to be doing this alongside Richard, who is an old friend and someone I have huge respect for.”
He introduced his background: “I work quite a lot in Moldova and Georgia, and my own wines are sold in many countries, including Ukraine. My French wines, Le Grand Noir, are shipped regularly to Ukraine, which gives me great pleasure, I must say. But what this means is I see the world possibly a little differently from some of my colleagues in the UK, and indeed some of my friends who are Masters of Wine because I don’t think there is one market.”
Robert illustrated this idea with examples: “I have friends in Moldova who are making much more oaky style of wine than I would like to taste in London, but they tell me that the markets in which they are selling – those local markets – are very keen to have these types of wines.”
Cultural Preferences in Wine Markets: In Georgia, his partners sell wine in Poland, a market he described as “big” for wines, and, as in Russia and Ukraine, there is significant demand for semi-sweet wine. “In the UK, if you try to sell red wines with 40 g of sugar, you would struggle,” he pointed out, highlighting the regional differences in consumer taste. “I think you need to be very careful in listening to experts from anywhere, because very few experts have a truly global vision, although Richard and I try to have that.”
Caution Against Narrow Advice: Joseph cautioned against experts who, often driven by their own tastes and passions, advocate solely for indigenous grape varieties, saying, “You will see experts who come to Ukraine, or to Georgia, or to Greece, or Turkey, saying that you MUST have only indigenous local grape varieties. You need to understand that people who will buy grape varieties they have never heard of before to try wine, they are the minority of the drinking public.”
The Value of Familiarity in Varietals: Holding up a Greek wine as an example, he said, “I have in front of me the wine from Greece, Xinomavro-Syrah, which is a blend of a local Greek grape variety and one from France. This one is sold by Aldi discount group, and I am pretty sure they sell more of that than if these wines had only Xinomavro without Syrah. People recognize the word Syrah and feel more confident in buying it.”
The Myth of a Unified “Young People’s” Market: Next, he addressed common misconceptions about what young people want in wine. “You will also be told that young people want authentic wines with less alcohol, fresh and fruity style, and I would say it is true,” he admitted, before adding an exception. He cited a Moldovan company selling a fortified Muscat wine, 16 percent alcohol, aimed entirely at the USA market, featuring flavors like peach and blackberry. “The fastest-growing new wine in the USA market last year was a Californian wine, imported from Italy, flavored with pineapple and chili.”
Diverse Markets for Alcohol-Free Wines: Moving to another trend, he explained, “There is no one wine market; there is no one set of styles.” Joseph then discussed zero-alcohol wine, a product he recently introduced. “What is interesting to me is how many people in the wine industry do not like the idea of zero-alcohol wine. They accept zero-alcohol beer, but they do not like the idea of zero-alcohol wine because wine is a noble product of terroir and so on.”
He clarified the market’s trajectory, “The global wine market is flat or going down, while the zero-alcohol wine market is going up by about 7 percent per year. People say to me, ‘But zero-alcohol wine is not as good as normal wine.’ My answer is that these wines are not competing with normal wines; they are competing with Coca-Cola, water, and other non-alcoholic products.”
Packaging Preferences Across Markets: Joseph continued with a point on packaging preferences, explaining, “There are questions that vary from one country to another.” That morning, he had been discussing P and D bottles with an importer in Finland. “In Nordic markets, lightweight, environmentally friendly packaging is very popular, but in the UK, it’s much less so. Lots of UK exporters advocate for light bottles for environmental reasons, but if you are trying to sell your wine in Asia or possibly America, you will still have customers who want heavy bottles.”
Understanding Closure Preferences in Different Markets: Robert also mentioned closure choices. “With our wines, Le Grand Noir, the wines you see in Ukraine, we are bottling those wines with screw caps, which I like, Diam corks, which are a good form of natural cork. The closure you get depends on your market, and each market has its own requirements.”
The Myth of a “Single” Wine Consumer: His presentation closed with a broader reflection. “Finally, we need wine producers, wherever they are, to understand there is no such thing as ‘the wine drinker.’ There are many different kinds of wine drinkers, both between countries and within them.” He offered a comparison from his own portfolio, saying, “The person who buys my Le Grand Noir Chardonnay for 12 dollars in the US is probably not the same person who buys my Georgian wine, K’AVSHIRI, for 35 to 45 dollars in the USA.”
The Critical Role of Communication and Marketing: Joseph stressed, “The challenge for wine producers is to communicate directly with the people who are most likely to buy each particular kind of wine. And, and this is very important, to invest the money required for proper communication.” As an example of market challenges, he cited Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits, the largest distributor in the USA, which sells over 7,000 wine brands. “Wine sales went down by about 8 percent in America over the last 12 months, so they just fired 3,000 of their staff.”
“Being imported by Southern Glazer’s, who controls over 50% of the US market, is not necessarily good news,” he added, underscoring the need for producers to establish direct communication with consumers.
A Realistic Perspective on Quality and Distribution: Joseph reflected on his previous role as a wine critic. “When I was a critic and organizer of wine competitions, I imagined that wines that were very good and priced well would always sell. I was wrong! Today wines have to be good because there is no room for bad wines. But once they are good, they need a strong distributor and very good marketing. Without those, however good they are, they will struggle.”
Advice for Ukrainian Producers: Turning specifically to Ukraine, he shared practical advice: “For the Ukrainian market, remember when choosing a distributor to think about who is going to buy your wine. If you work with a distributor specializing in Central and Eastern Europe, you will primarily have customers who want to buy wine from Central and Eastern Europe. That can be both positive and negative.”
“For my Georgian wines, for example, I don’t look for a distributor who specializes in Central and Eastern Europe; I look for one who sells high-quality Italian, French, and other wines,” he clarified, emphasizing the importance of positioning in the broader global wine market.
Final Reflections: “Over the year I have tasted a lot of very good Ukrainian wines, and I think it is indeed a good time to have them in the global wine market,” he concluded. Comparing today’s wine market with the past, he remarked, “It is much easier now to identify people who are more likely to buy these wines than it was 10 or 20 years ago.”
Looking ahead, Robert Joseph shared, “I am going to a European sommelier contest in a couple of weeks, and I know there are lots of sommeliers who are looking for new wines. They are certainly the type of people I expect to be talking to about Ukrainian wines.”
Resilience and Innovation in the Ukrainian Wine Industry. Following the presentations by Richard Bampfield and Robert Joseph, Ukrainian representatives took the stage to share their insights on resilience and growth in the Ukrainian wine industry, even in challenging times. Key speakers included Valentyna Parsaieva, Head of Export at Shabo Winery, who discussed the evolution of exports; Svitlana Tsybak, Head of the Ukrainian Association of Craft Winemakers and Co-Founder of Wines of Ukraine, who shared valuable insights on community development; and Sergii Mazur, Export Director at Vitis Group, who spoke about the diversification into local spirits production. Hanna Kovalevska, Co-Founder of Bakota Bay Winery, highlighted the resilience shown through relocation and its impact on the community; Artem Skubenko, Founder of Honey Badger, emphasized their mission to elevate Ukrainian liqueurs and infusions on the global stage; Nataliia Burlachenko, CEO of Big Wines, outlined key investment opportunities in Ukrainian viticulture; and Volodymyr Pechko, Head of UKRSADVINPROM, provided an insightful overview of recent industry developments and export trends.
Each speaker underscored strategic adaptations, from expanding export markets to fostering community development and exploring new production avenues, illustrating the resilience and innovation that define the Ukrainian wine industry.
Tasting experience. The event concluded with a captivating wine and spirits tasting, offering attendees a meticulously curated exploration of both notable international and local selections. Among the highlights were the 2022 K’avshiri White and 2022 K’avshiri Red from Robert Joseph and Vladimer Kublashvili, which celebrated the rich heritage of the Kakheti and Imereti vineyards. Tenuta Manoylo showcased an impressive lineup, featuring the award-winning Pecorino (2021 Falerio DOC) and Rosso Piceno (2022 Rosso Piceno DOC), reinforcing the Marche region’s renowned quality. Ukrainian craftsmanship was also a focal point with Honey Badger‘s traditional Nalyvka infusions, including Blackcurrant, Cherry, and Cornelian Cherry liqueurs, adding a distinctive local touch.
This exquisite tasting session provided a fitting finale to a day filled with insightful discussions on global wine trends and strategic growth within the industry, seamlessly integrating international perspectives with the dynamic innovation of Ukrainian winemaking.
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