A round-the-world journey through the established world: Italy, Romania, Georgia, Portugal, Ukraine
Tasting Around the Sustainable World at ProWein 2024: six samples, five unique regions.
Of all the types of tourism, the Wine Travel Awards team naturally chooses wine tourism. So, on 12 March, the WTA editors invited their like-minded members — those who prefer exhausting journeys along the world’s wine roads to medical, sports or, even worse, beach tourism — to Tasting Around the Sustainable World. It was not difficult to gather a relevant audience, as the wine tour around the five corners of the planet was held this time as part of ProWein (Düsseldorf).
However, the guests had to pass such tests as the transport workers’ strike, the tension of the last day of the exhibition and the temptation to attend a number of other important events that fell on that date. However, the topic of the lecture — sustainable wine tourism — by Professor Dr Gergely Szolnoki from Geisenheim University, a member of the WTA jury, was at the top of the list of topical issues. And his practical recommendations, based on a study of the practices of more than 1,500 wineries from 42 countries, are definitely unique. So, the event was a sell-out. Undoubtedly, the presentation by the WTA was also attracted by the tasting itself. The award team managed to select a surprisingly attractive line-up of participants who represented the real gems of the wine world.
Passo del Borgo Falerio DOC Pecorino 2021
The first wine on the tasting list was Passo del Borgo Falerio DOC Pecorino 2021, a white wine from the land known for its winemaking traditions since the time of Picenum and Ancient Rome. Tenuta Manoylo — from the Marche region in northern Italy — presented its single-varietal wine from young (6 years old) vines of the ancient Pecorino variety. It is aged first in metal and then cement tanks, then 20% in wooden tonneaux. This wine was first exhibited internationally during the spring session of the MUNDUS VINI 2024 competition and won a silver medal.
Don’t forget to forget for Tenuta Manoylo here.
Guest reviews
Paul Bonarrigo, USA, CEO and Head Winemaker at Messina Hof Winery, board member of the Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association (TWGGA), and he currently serves on the Texas Department of Agriculture Wine Advisory Council
Clean fresh white wine. Nice balance.
Sanket Chavan, Germany, Global Food Procurement Category-Wine at Metro AG
The wine has floral and little minimalistic aroma, medium acidity. It is very strong. I feel lime notes. The wine has a long lasting taste.
Anne-Wies van Oosten, Netherlands/ Romania, Food journalist, WSET level 4
Flowery, white fruits, spicy, full bodied, slightly oaky, good structure and acidity.
Tomasz Witkowski, Poland/Hungary, wines ambassador, importer for 2Bratanki/Węgierskie wina
Such a nice, well structured wine made from Pecorino — autochthonous grapes from the Marche region. Good acidity and minerality, in the nose scent of peach, pears, apricots, fresh and crispy. I would love to taste it with zucchini risotto or some seafood.
Anna Gorkun, Poland/Ukraine, co-owner of the “46 Parallel” brand
The smell is much gentler than the pleasant taste, acidity with the spicy aftertaste.
Detlef Köhler
Kraft wine with a multi-layered complex taste, has a lactic and wax notes.
Lurkerych Svitlana, Germany, sommelier
Suitable only for eating, it has woody notes.
Constantin Drăgan, Romania, Head Sommelier of Jidvei Winery
Another standout was the Passo del Borgo Falerio 2021 from Tenuta Manoylo, an expansive wine with floral and fruity notes seamlessly integrated with delicate vanilla undertones from the oak aging process. Its full-bodied character and well-structured palate, brimming with flavors of peaches, apricots, and ripe apples, made it an ideal companion for gastronomic delights.
Mysterium Rosé Burt Vintage 2021
The second destination was a region of Romania that has long been known as Weinland. Hence the Wine Travel Awards nominee in two categories — Jidvei, authenticity from the heart of Transylvania. Jidvei is a family winemaking tradition that has been going on for 75 years. And this is the fabulous Bethlen-Haller Castle (1560–1624), which has undergone a 20-year restoration, opened its doors to tourists only last year, in 2023, and offers no less fabulous wines.
You can vote for this incredible location here: Jidvei — Wine Travel Awards and Jidvei — Wine Travel Awards. By the way, this is the first Romanian winery to be included in the TOP 100 Premium Wine and Spirits Brands of the World 2023 by the Luxury Lifestyle Awards. This outstanding winery, which is pursuing a course of sustainability in both production and tourism, presented two unique samples during The Tasting Around the Sustainable World, which won gold at the last spring session of Mundus Vini: brut rosé and riesling. By the way, at Mundus Vini 2024, Jidvei wines were awarded 11 medals — 6 gold and 5 silver. In total, the Romanian winery has more than 1000 medals. But the most important thing is that this winery is actively implementing a set of advanced technologies that have a vector of sustainability.
Mysterium Rosé Brut Vintage 2021 is a wine made from Pinot Noir grapes using the traditional method. It is distinguished by a specific acidity characteristic of the Târnave Vineyard terroir, floral notes and a berry palette of aromas. The guests present at the tasting, as if walking through the wooded hills of Transylvania, looked into a basket of berries picked by a local girl: delicate flavors of strawberry tart turn into subtle notes of firm raspberries, mingling with the aroma of early cherries glistening in the sun. The color is soft, salmon pink, with a beautiful elegant perlage.
The wines of the outstanding Romanian producer were presented at the tasting by Constantin Drăgan, Head Sommelier of Jidvei Winery. He praised the participation in the Wine Travel Awards event during ProWein 2024:
Participating in the Wine Travel Awards tasting event was both an honor and a delight. I had the privilege to showcase two of Jidvei Winery’s iconic wines: the Mysterium Rosé Burt Vintage 2021, crafted using traditional methods, and the Eiswein Jidvei 2018, a delightful dessert wine. Witnessing the enthusiastic reception from those tasting our wines was immensely gratifying; it was evident that our offerings resonated with the participants on a profound level.
Participating in the Wine Travel Awards — Tasting Around the Sustainable World was an enriching experience, allowing me to showcase the exceptional wines of Jidvei Winery and represent Romanian wine on a global stage. We celebrate 75 years of Jidvei brand existence with the promise that, through everything we will do, our commitment to upholding the excellence of Romanian wine will remain unwavering.
Guest reviews
Tomasz Witkowski, Poland/Hungary, wines ambassador, importer for 2Bratanki/Hungary wines
I would never think I would enjoy sparkling wine from Romania, but it happened! Made by Jidvei — one of the best Romanian producers from Transylvania. Traditional method of production, pale rose — salmon color, very gentle in the nose (cherries, strawberries), nice acidity, yet creamy structure. Perfect for sunny days during spring and summer.
Sanket Chavan
It has a fresh and berry aroma, especially strawberry notes.
Paul Bonarrigo, USA
Floral, clean, fresh, excellent balance.
Anna Gokun
Aroma was well-developed at the end. The taste has a complex structure. The aftertaste is with the prevailing bitterness of the apricot skin.
Fulöp Lanszh, Germany, The Geisenheim University representative
The wine has a long acidity. I feel high primes aromas in the nose and raisins. It also has a nice brio taste.
Detlef Köhler
Soft, slightly sour wine with notes of currants, from local breeds. It has a harmonious aftertaste.
Anne-Wies van Oosten, Netherlands/ Romania, Food journalist, WSET level 4, judging the Mundus Vini competition
Elegant mousse, dry, red cherries and strawberry, hint of brioche.
Lurkerych Svitlana
Sweet hints in the smell, a little bitter.
Salome Single Vineyard 2013
Shumi Winery, part of the fantastic, amazingly diverse Shumi Estate tourist complex in Tsinandali, Georgia, is the next stop on the tour. This area is the heart of the country that is called the cradle of world winemaking. The owners of Shumi presented an outstanding wine that has won a number of gold medals at international competitions — Salome Single Vineyard 2013. The terroir is worth a separate stop, as it is located in the historical area of Didkure (Napareuli PDO), which in the past belonged to the kings of Georgia and Prince Alexander Chavchavadze.
The 1.9 hectares consist of 25 YO Saperavi vines, with a density of 2650 vines/ha, with a maximum productivity of 30 HL/ha. The vineyard is located on the southern slope of the Caucasus Mountains, on the left bank of the Alazani River, at an altitude of 450 m above sea level, surrounded by wildlife. The vines are cultivated using biodynamic methods, all operations are carried out manually, and green harvesting is used. For this wine, the bunches are partially de-stemmed before alcoholic fermentation begins in Vicard Foudre, specially created from 250 YO oak, with medium toast.
The wine develops in these barrels for 11 months. The wine has a deep purple colour with a brick rim. The aroma is of red and black cherries with hints of blackberry jam. The wine has a rich body, well balanced, with an evolution of juicy black berries and red fruits, ripe, fully integrated tannins, well-balanced acidity, providing a long finish. This outstanding example of Georgian winemaking was presented by Saba Kitiashvili, Chief Sommelier of SHUMI Winery.
You can support SHUMI Winery with your vote.
Guest reviews
Paul Bonarrigo, USA
Dark berries feel in aromas. Full body wine with strong tannin.
Sanket Chavan
It takes time to open. I feel the aroma of dark berries. It is vegetative and full body wine with balanced acidity and tannin.
Constantin Drăgan I was impressed by the exceptional wines on offer. One that particularly stands out in my memory is the Salome Single Vineyard 2013, a remarkable red wine made from the Saperavi grape variety. Hailing from the esteemed Shumi Winery in Georgia, this wine captivated with its velvety texture and rich aromas of ripe black fruits, complemented by subtle hints of spice and tobacco. Its long and flavourful finish truly showcased the generous terroir of Georgia.
Anna Gorkun
The aroma and taste is nice. The wine has a pleasant acidity with a skin tannin.
Tomasz Witkowski, Poland/Hungary, wines ambassador, importer for 2Bratanki/Węgierskie wina
100% Saperavi from Georgia, with elegant tannins, soft structure, very pleasant aromas of plums, dark berries, sour cherry. The aging process was made in partly new and partly used barrels from French and Hungarian (!) oak.
Anne-Wies van Oosten, Netherlands/ Romania, Food journalist, WSET level 4
Creamy, dark fruit, velvety soft tannins, medium finish.
Detlef Köhler
Red sweet plum wine with hints of tobacco and tannin.
Fulöp Lanszh
There are the black pepper and other notes in the taste. It is full body wine, well balanced and crispy at the same time.
The Eiswein Jidvei 2018
Once again, Romania, wine-growing Transylvania, Weinland, Jidvei. This time, it’s ice wine. Taking this opportunity, we would like to add a few facts about Jidvei: this winery owns the largest vineyard plantation in Romania, and perhaps in Europe — 2500 hectares. Of course, such a vineyard area creates an extremely diverse ecosystem and distinct terroir, and this is reflected in the wide range of products Jidvei produces, from still to sparkling wines, brandies and musts. With more than 70 brands in its portfolio, Jidvei produces wines grouped broadly into two categories: Geographical Indication — Transylvanian Hills (1958) and Protected Designation of Origin Jidvei wines.
Eiswein Jidvei 2018 is a masterpiece of winemaking art, a symbolic product for Jidvei. The Traminer Rosé grapes were harvested by hand from the hills of the Tarnave Valley on 2 December 2018. The harvest was carried out quickly, under harsh temperature conditions below -7°C. Thus, healthy but frozen grapes were brought to the winery as soon as possible, where they were immediately pressed. The finished wine has a delicate taste with hints of ripe honey, a golden and bright amber color and notes of yellow watermelon, mango, apricots and quince in the aroma. Recommended as a dessert wine, Eiswein Jidvei is intended for special moments.
Guest reviews
Paul Bonarrigo, USA
Excellent!
Anne-Wies van Oosten
Beautiful fruity (grapy) nose and palate combined with tropical fruits. Great balance between residual sugar and acidity.
Fulöp Lanszh
I feel the elderflowers in the nose and fruitiness.
Sanket Chavan
It has a nice and strong aroma with honey taste.
Anna Gorkun
Breakful aroma: honey, acacia, dry apricot. The taste is very well-balanced. Well done!
Tomasz Witkowski, Poland/Hungary, wines ambassador, importer for 2Bratanki/Węgierskie wina
The new and trendy style of making sweet wines, called eiswein, came to Romania too! And so we have here a nice example of what it should look like. Aromas of ripe fruits, honey, almonds… sweet and tasty, perfect for apple pie!
Detlef Köhler
Soft but complex taste with honey and yellow fruits.
Taylor’s Historical Collection III The Mallet
Our fifth stop is in the incredible Douro Valley in Portugal. And one of the best examples of local winemaking is Taylor’s Historical Collection III The Mallet. This special Reserve Tawny Port is made from a blend of red grapes grown in the Douro Valley and aged in small oak barrels. This unique port is presented in a historic 18th century bottle and delivered in a beautifully crafted wooden box. Carefully blended from selected ports from Taylor’s impressive collection of Tawny oak-aged wines, this unique blend has a distinctive character with the familiar fullness and finish for which Taylor’s is renowned.
The port has a deep, brick red color with a reddish tint and a ripe, complex aroma that contains delicate nuances of plum, fig, marzipan and toffee. It also offers an elegant hint of cigar box, cedar and leather, which gives the aroma an exotic touch. The palate is intense and refined, with seductive fullness, softness and roundness, as well as notes of fruit cake and fresh plum. These flavors are accompanied by fine, well-integrated tannins and a long, pleasant finish. Taylor’s ports have been aged for decades and have been highly praised by Robert Parker. The Taylor’s brand is also known for its special vintage ports created for global celebrations, such as the Very Very Old Tawny Port for Queen Elizabeth II’s platinum jubilee. Chris Forbes, Sales Director of Fladgate Partnership, the company that owns the Taylor’s brand, hosted the tasting.
Don’t forget to vote for WOW, one of Portugal’s largest tourist attractions and quite possibly one of the biggest in the world.
Guest reviews
Sanket Chavan
I feel the hints of raisins and dry berries in the nose. The wine is subtle and smooth.
Tomasz Witkowski, Poland/Hungary, wines ambassador, importer for 2Bratanki/Węgierskie wina
What to say here — just an icon, one of the oldest wine houses, dedicated entirely to the production of Port wine. And of course, some could say — Porto will taste the best only when it is born, in Douro valley, however — I found it excellent also far away from Portugal, on Dusseldorf tasting.
Paul Bonarrigo, USA
Nice, dry, lovely bottle.
Constantin Drăgan
The Taylor’s Historical Collection III — The Mallet, Porto wine, left a lasting impression with its intense and persistent character, boasting complex aromas of plum jam, figs, and dates, intertwined with subtle notes of sweet wood and cedar. Its velvety texture and elegant finish exemplified the epitome of quality Porto wine.
Manfred Ullemeyer, Germany, ambassador of culture and wine
This wine is #1 of this trip. My favorite of the tasting.
Detlef Köhler
Quite an alcoholic taste, with a fruity balsamic and nutty caramel taste.
Anna Gorkun
The aroma is balanced very well. I feel the smell of dry black cherry standing with a bouquet of nutty aftertaste.
Anne-Wies van Oosten, Netherlands/ Romania, Food journalist, WSET level 4
Creamy start, dried apricots, smoked hazelnuts, spicy. Lovely glass.
RUTA balm
In fact, the classic meal should have ended with that incredible port. But our Around the Sustainable World tasting was joined by another extraordinary drink — botanical balsamic from Ukraine. Its strength and distinctive taste and powerful aroma dictated that we close our tasting with this hot spot — in every sense of the word. And although this charming and hospitable country cannot invite oenotourists while the war is still raging on the territory of Ukraine, it is using wine diplomacy to demonstrate its high potential and earn its own place in the European family of winemakers.
You can support RUTA balm with your vote.
In 2023, the RUTA brand took part in the international CRAFT SPIRITS AWARDS competition held in London and won a gold medal. RUTA balm is a craft balm based on 96 plants collected in different parts of Ukraine. Many of these plants have long been known for their magical properties that give strength and protection. Some of them are endemic. The balm is made by alcohol maceration of berries, flowers, herbs, roots and spices. This is followed by a blending process with the addition of prepared water, high-quality alcohol and sugar syrup. The alcohol content is 36% by volume. The balsam does not contain any coloring or flavoring.
Olga Pinevych-Todoriuk, editor-in-chief of Drinks+, presented the amazing Ukrainian drink to the guests.
Guest reviews
Tomasz Witkowski, Poland/Hungary, wines ambassador, importer for 2Bratanki/Węgierskie wina
Great discovery to me! Fantastic herbal balm made from 96 (!!!) herbs, collected all over Ukraine. This balm is made by alcohol maceration of berries, flowers, herbs, roots and spices. And, with its 36% alcohol it is so gentle, light and delicate!! To me fantastic — or as aperitif or after the dinner — for better digestion. Ruta is absolutely exceptional, you should try it!!
Fulöp Lanszh
The smell of this balm is like a meadow in a forest.
Sanket Chavan
It is a highly aromatic balm with vegetative notes. The taste is like berries combined with mint and wild flowers.
Constantin Drăgan
Discovering Ruta Balm from Ukraine was a revelation. Its intense aroma, reminiscent of aromatic herbs, spices, and floral notes, immediately captured my senses. Learning about its unique composition, with extracts from 96 ingredients including aromatic flowers, medicinal plants, and fruit macerates, further added to its allure.
Detlef Köhler
Craft balm with a fruity alcohol taste.
Lurkerych Svitlana
Has a nice bitter tone.Anne-Wies van Oosten, Netherlands/ Romania, Food journalist, WSET level 4
A field of herbs on the nose, fresh, the smell of spring. Clean and herby on the palate. Fresh, very fine.
Natalia Burlachenko, Ukraine, CEO of Big Wines
Amazing taste! 96 points!
Paul Bonarrigo, USA
Strong vegetative aroma. Feel oregano, sweet, alcoholic.
Manfred Ullemeyer, Germany
According to my system, the balsam was ranked second among the drinks that impressed me during the tasting.
