Odesa Black Shines at the 45th World Congress of Vine and Wine
Author: Oleksandra Hryhorieva
From October 14 to 18, 2024, France played host to the 45th World Congress of Vine and Wine in Dijon, a city now home to the new headquarters of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV). As part of the centennial celebrations of the OIV, Ukraine proudly introduced the international community to its unique autochthonous grape variety, Odesa Black. Drinks+ media group served as the media partner for the Ukrainian delegation at the 45th World Congress of Vine and Wine in Dijon. The event featured a presentation and guided tasting of Ukraine’s flagship grape, Odesa Black, as well as a discussion on “The Global Influence of Climate Change on the wine-growing zones of Ukraine.”
Despite the ongoing hardships caused by the war, Ukraine’s wine industry has shown remarkable resilience and growth, carving out a prominent place in the global wine landscape. Thanks to the country’s European integration efforts, the number of winemaking enterprises has surged by an impressive 65% in recent years. Showcasing these achievements on the world stage is vital, especially as Ukrainian wines continue to gain recognition through prestigious international awards, the establishment of new wineries, and the creation of the “Wines of Ukraine” brand.
The Ukrainian delegation made a strong impact at the Congress. On October 16, they took the stage to share Ukraine’s rich winemaking history, the challenges it faces, and the opportunities available in today’s global market. A highlight of the presentation was the guided tasting of Ukraine’s flagship grape, Odesa Black, which captivated the distinguished international audience.
Guests were first introduced to Ukraine’s wine scene with a glass of welcome wine, BIG WINES Big Art Telti-Kuruk 2023. Volodymyr Pechko, head of Ukraine’s official delegation and chairman of the public association “UKRSADVYNPROM”, set the tone for the event. “Today, we invite you on a journey through Ukraine’s diverse geography, exploring the effects of global warming on our vineyards and the legislative and promotional strides we are making. Our goal is to bring Ukraine closer to the global winemaking family and the OIV community,” he remarked.
Nataliia Burlachenko, deputy head of “UKRSADVYNPROM” and CEO of BIG WINES, delivered an insightful presentation on “The Global Influence of Climate Change on the wine-growing zones of Ukraine.” Nataliia reported that Ukraine’s average annual air temperature rose from approximately 7°C in 1901-1910 to around 9.5°C in 2011-2019. Research on the evaluation and zoning of natural moisture conditions across the country shows that southern regions, including Odesa, Mykolaiv, Kherson, Zaporizhzhia, and the Crimea, have become drier over last 50 years. As a result, new wine-growing regions have emerged in areas such as Lviv, Ternopil, Khmelnytskyi, Vinnytsia, Kyiv, and Chernihiv.
Following this, she led a commented tasting of five wines from the Odesa Black variety, all carefully selected from top Ukrainian producers for this special event.
Winery Mon Crafto 2023
- Region: Zhytomyr region, Andrushivka town, Ukraine
- Aroma: prunes, chocolate, notes of currants and blackberries
- Taste: rich, tannic, multifaceted with a hint of dried fruit
- Ageing: 6 months in oak barrels
- Alcohol: 13%
Gigi Wine 2022 – Gigineishvili Wine House
- Region: Vinnytsia, Ukraine
- Aroma: developed, with tones of ripe grapes, mulberry and notes of sweet red figs
- Taste: rich, moderately tannic with tones of aging and dried fruit
- Ageing: 12 months in oak barrels
- Alcohol: 14,5%
BIG WINES Big Art 2021
- Region: Odesa region, Izmail district, Reni city, Ukraine
- Aroma: smoked cherry, blackberry, black mulberry, white and black pepper, prunes in chocolate, dark chocolate, eucalyptus, light notes of currant
- Taste: balanced, rich, with the velvet tannins in the duration of the aftertaste
- Ageing: 12 months in French oak barrels
- Alcohol: 13,8%
Maryan Shevchenko Winery 2020
- Region: Odesa region, Ukraine
- Aroma: aging in a barrel is felt, notes of prunes, figs, spices (black and white pepper), smoked plum, light notes of vanilla
- Taste: rounded, drinkable wine, with high tannins, dried plum, smoked plum, black berries. Good potential for bottle aging.
- Ageing: 10 months in oak barrels
- Alcohol: 13,5%
“Taïrovske Soborne” 2021 – “V.Ye. Tairov Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking» NAAS of Ukraine (dessert wine)
- Region: Odesa region, village Tairove, Ukraine
- Aroma: bright bouquet, dried cherry, prune, chocolate, fresh milk cream
- Taste: full, high dessert, oiliness, dried cherry, prune, chocolate
- Ageing: 12 months in oak barrels
- Alcohol: 12%
- Sugar: 21%
The Ukrainian delegation in Dijon is supported by Dr. Ricardo F. Nunez, thanks to whose efforts Ukraine was able to regain its place in the OIV, the owner of the international group of companies Vinos de La Luz and an investor in Ukrainian winemaking.
“Believe me I am very impressed of today. For me, as an investor, the most important thing today is to talk about the future of Ukraine. In this case, we, foreign investors, are only talking about the future. You have to be there before the victory to enjoy the victory and develop your own vineyards to be able to come everywhere. Today it is cheap, tomorrow it will be very expensive,” said Dr. Ricardo F. Nuñez, encouraging foreign businessmen to invest in Ukraine’s future.
Interest in Ukrainian wines is rapidly increasing. The tasting event was fully booked, with attendees eager to learn more about the country’s wine scene. Engaged and curious, the audience posed numerous questions throughout the session. Ukrainian wines garnered enthusiastic praise from international experts, further solidifying their reputation on the global stage.
Ignacio Sanchez Recarte, Secretary General of CEEV – Comité Européen des Entreprises Vins (Belgium): “It was a superb wine tasting. It is always good to be able to travel through the wine to Ukraine. I am impressed by the evolution of the quality. Personally, even though I know that the global appreciation of sweet wines is decreasing, the dessert wine that you presented was superb. Just amazing! I think that the choice of Odesa Black as a flagship variety of Ukraine is quite successful and promising.”
Pascal Durand, President of PNAcademy, professor at l’Institut Agro Dijon (France), has visited several Ukrainian wine regions in the past and is familiar with some of the country’s wines. However, Odesa Black was a revelation for him during this tasting. Afterward, he remarked on the intriguing diversity of expressions from different wineries, regions, and winemaking approaches using the same grape variety: “The aromas are remarkably distinct. I’m not accustomed to tasting wines like these—fruity, powerful, with a rich, full-bodied texture. But I can absolutely see why it appeals to many. Odesa Black offers exciting potential for food pairings.”
Julie Hesketh-Laird, Chief Executive of FIVS, an international federation that works for the overall sustainability of the global alcohol beverage sector, shared her impressions: “I was so excited to hear about Ukrainian wine today that I am really only just learning about. We tried some amazing samples today. It is great to taste something promising, putting Ukraine on the map, bringing Ukraine to the international organisations and wine communities where you belong.”
As Ukraine continues to showcase its winemaking potential on the global stage, the success of Odesa Black at the 45th World Congress of Vine and Wine marks an important milestone. With growing international interest and recognition, Ukrainian wines are proving that even in the face of challenges, innovation and tradition can thrive. The world is beginning to take notice, and Ukraine is firmly establishing its place in the future of global winemaking.
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