A Deep Dive into Ribera del Duero: Interview with Tim Atkin MW
Author: Kateryna Yushchenko
Kateryna Yushchenko, Drinks+ columnist and Wine Travel Awards Advisory Board member, had the privilege of sitting with Tim Atkin MW, one of the world’s most respected wine critics and a Master of Wine, while he presented his comprehensive 2024 Ribera del Duero report. With over three decades of experience in wine journalism and judging, Atkin’s annual regional reports have become essential reading for both wine professionals and enthusiasts. His work regularly appears in publications such as Harpers, Decanter, and The World of Fine Wine. His in-depth reports cover key wine regions including Bordeaux, Burgundy, South Africa, and Spain
Having just concluded his most extensive evaluation of Ribera del Duero – visiting over 60 bodegas and tasting wines from more than 100 producers during a two-week immersion – Tim shared invaluable insights about the evolution, emerging trends, and future directions of this prestigious Spanish wine region.
Your Top 100 selection has become a benchmark for excellence in Ribera del Duero. What criteria do you use when evaluating these wines?
The Top 100 selection is purely about quality – these wines scored 94 points or higher in my tastings. What’s fascinating about Ribera del Duero is the diversity of styles that can achieve this level of excellence. I’m looking for wines that show impeccable winemaking and express their terroir. This might be a powerful, complex wine from a historic bodega or a more elegant, altitude-driven wine from a younger producer. The key is authenticity and balance.
Can you elaborate on the region’s terroir diversity? How does this influence the wines?
What makes Ribera del Duero fascinating is its range of elevations – we’re talking about vineyards from 750 to over 1,000 meters above sea level. Then you have this incredible mix of soils: limestone, clay, sand, and even some slate. Combining these factors with different aspects and exposures gives you this remarkable diversity in wine styles. The higher altitude sites, in particular, are becoming increasingly important as they help maintain freshness and acidity in an era of climate change.
The Budget Selection seems particularly important in showcasing the region’s value. How has this category evolved?
The Budget Selection, featuring wines scoring 91+ points and retailing under €16 in Spain, is crucial because it challenges the perception that Ribera del Duero only produces expensive wines. The quality in this category has improved dramatically over the past few years. We’re seeing more wineries investing in their entry-level wines, often using fruit from younger vines but applying the same careful winemaking principles as their top cuvées. Many of these wines are “Robles” style, which means lighter oak ageing, allowing the fruit and terroir to shine through.
You’ve mentioned climate change. How is the region adapting?
This is perhaps one of the most pressing challenges and opportunities for Ribera del Duero. We see several adaptations: earlier picking dates, more focus on high-altitude vineyards, and increased interest in north-facing slopes. The 2021 vintage is exciting because it was cooler – probably the best vintage I’ve tasted since 2019. It shows how the region can excel when temperatures are more moderate.
What role does the Unrepresented Selection play in the market?
The Unrepresented Selection is fascinating because it highlights the depth of quality in Ribera del Duero and the opportunities available in the market. We identified 76 wines scoring 91 points or higher that currently lack UK representation – including 36 from the Top 100. These aren’t just good wines; some are exceptional and represent real opportunities for importers and merchants looking to diversify their Spanish portfolios.
Who are some of the emerging producers we should watch?
I’m particularly excited about producers like Valdemonjas, Magna Vides, Tres Pedras, Fuente Fem, and Territorio Lutie. These are mostly smaller, family-owned operations working with exceptional vineyard sites. They represent the “new” Ribera del Duero – often focusing on single vineyard expressions, working with older vines, and pursuing a more terroir-driven winemaking style.
What excites you most about Ribera del Duero’s future?
Several things excite me. First, there’s this new generation of winemakers who understand both their heritage and modern winemaking techniques. They’re not afraid to experiment while respecting tradition. Second, there’s growing recognition of the importance of old vines and specific vineyard sites. And finally, I’m seeing more emphasis on sustainable and organic viticulture. These factors, combined with the region’s natural advantages, suggest a very bright future.
Any final thoughts on the current state of Ribera del Duero?
We’re at a fascinating moment in Ribera del Duero’s evolution. The region has the history and prestige of producers like Vega Sicilia and Pingus, but it’s not resting on these laurels. There’s real innovation happening, whether exploring new vineyard sites, adapting to climate change, or developing fresher, more elegant wine styles. The quality across all price points has never been higher, and the diversity of styles means there’s something for every wine lover.
Editorial Note: This interview was conducted during the presentation of Tim Atkin MW’s 2024 Ribera del Duero report, which represents his most comprehensive regional assessment to date. The report includes detailed analyses of wines from over 160 producers, along with the Top 100 selection (94+ points), Budget Selection (91+ points, priced under €16), and Unrepresented Selection (high-scoring wines currently without UK representation).
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